What have dressmakers been sewing ready for Spring? Top of the pops is the perennial classic – a pencil skirt. A pencil skirt can be a classic knee skimming business skirt, a sassy and shorter option in four-way stretch or slinky sequins for evenings or for a contemporary twist on the style make it as a calf length hobble or wiggle skirt. It’s no wonder this simple skirt is such a popular classic, not only can it be worn for so many occasions, it’s an easy garment to make too.
You can choose to make your pencil skirt with a waistband, or waist facing instead, which I prefer and you can add darts to the back to shape it around the derriere and even add kick pleats or a fashionable ruffle at the hem for a variation.
Do take care to make the right size though because it is a close fitting garment, so there isn’t a lot of ‘ease’ allowance. Check your hip and waist measurements and choose the size by the hip. It’s easier to adjust for a different waist size – grade the side seams out or in slightly, remove or reduce darts etc. Remember that whatever the difference between your waist and the pattern size waist will need to be divided by the number of seams or darts you are altering. So if you are 5cm (2″) bigger on the waist than the pattern is for the hip size you’ve chosen and you have 2 side seams plus two front darts, you can divide it by 4, and grade out the sides by 13mm and slim down the darts or leave them out completely.
Which pattern to choose
There are a number of easy to make pencil skirt designs to choose from, including a top selling classic such as McCalls 6654 which is an easy to make skirt for knit fabrics, with elasticated waist and just two pieces – front and back.
Go short and sassy with McCalls Learn to Sew design 7631, which is a Learn to Sew design so has detailed how-to instructions for inserting a zip, learn to make a back slit and sew with difficult fabrics.
For a more contemporary look, try Vogue Pattern 8750 which has several curved seams to give a classic style chic detailing. And why not add some piping within some of the seams to lift this easy to sew pattern into the designer class!
My final top pattern pic for a pencil skirt is Butterick 5566 which is perfect for the lovely new four-way stretch knit fabrics as well as woven fabrics. Make one or two up and you will have some figure hugging staples to add to your wardrobe.
Enjoy sewing your own pencil skirt this Spring.