In my last blog picked some of my favourite patterns for a new baby in light of the new royal birth. Now we can look forward to another royal occasion – the wedding of Prince Harry to Meghan Markle – another great excuse for dressing up and for parties! I’ve picked my favourites for special occasions.
Bring on the Bridal party
What will Meghan Markle wear? Will it be form fitting or full blown. I particularly like this chic and stylish wedding gown that is fitted and very simple at the front with a ‘wow factor’ lacy panel and covered buttons at the back – perfect for a big church wedding when all eyes are on the bride.
But, it’s not just the bride that will be dressed up. It’s a great opportunity to put on the glad rags ourselves. My pick of the patterns includes an elegant bias cut dress shown here in a fabulous red satin. It’s a Vogue Pattern by Tom and Linda Platt, Number 1208 and is perfect for a guest or as a going away outfit.
Or if you prefer to cover your arms, try Vogue Pattern 1536, also by Tom and Linda Platt. This sleeveless dress is fitted and topped with a cropped jacket with amazing back detail. It looks great here in a triple crepe.
Vogue Pattern 1532 is another delight for a special occasion, this time a strappy dress is covered with an unusual chiffon batwing top with jewelled cuffs.
If you like full skirts, try Vogue Pattern 9292 which is a panelled dress that fits through the body and flares into a full skirt – stunning in shot silk or satin.
Finally, for partying the evening away, this tiered strappy dress definitely fits the bill (McCall 6646). It’s an old favourite of mine and never seems to date.
The next couple of months are going to be a feast for fashionistas who enjoy a fabulous affair. Firstly we have the expected birth of a royal baby, closely followed by another royal couple’s wedding – great excuses for parties! So what will the best dressed babies and guests of the bridal party wear? And what will be the pick of the patterns for the rest of us? Below are a few suggestions for makes for babies and christenings. Next time I’ll suggest some fab outfits for bridal parties.
There are so many lovely patterns to make for babies that even if you haven’t got a pending arrival in your family, you will be tempted to sew for a friend of a friend! Ranging from traditional christening robes to rompers, summer dresses and cheeky nappy covers, there is something for all tastes and abilities.
I love Butterick 6045 shown above, which is a classic pack of christening robe or rompers for the boys, bonnet and booties. Use a fine cotton or linen fabric and add delicate pin tucks and a range of decorative stitches in white on white, or cream on white using a wing needle. This has ‘wings’ either side of the shaft so that the needle creates tiny holes in the fabric as you stitch replicating heirloom stitching of old. for truly heirloom style and you can create a gown that becomes a family tradition.
A layette is often a welcome gift for a new addition to the family, so Butterick 5583 is the perfect choice as it includes travel romper, bibs, hats, booties, nappy covers, blanket and sleepsuit.
I also love Butterick 5585, shown here as a stripy set of jersey dungarees and hat, so cute. The pack includes other options as well as a dress and top. This is a casual collection for everyday wear and will be very useful to a new born.
Add a nifty cap and keep the sun of your little lad with this pack of hats in McCall 6575 or when they begin to crawl, make some nappy coveralls that are suitably bright and bold and lots of fun (Kwik Sew 4052). And if you are a traditionalist, this lovely dress and romper pack with bonnets and nappy panties in Butterick 4110 is for you.
You can’t beat a babygro for comfort and practicality either. This pack includes one for the boys and one for the girls.
When babies start crawling, a nappy cover makes a nice addition to an outfit, particularly if it is a fun design like this one in Kwik Sew 3960. Each of the four versions have fun floral designs to choose from.
My final pick of the patterns for babies this month are two smart outfits that can be made and worn to special occasions. Enjoy sewing for babies.
This is a great way to add stylish detail to a plain garment or to jazz up a dress or top into a designer exclusive. It can also be used to replace a worn, torn or stained section! A lace insertion is a great alternative to having a whole garment in lace.
To add a lace panel, all you will need is an all-over lace fabric or a scalloped lace. The width and length required will depend on where you wish to add it – around the waist can look fabulous as can across the shoulders or part of the back. Avoid areas that are curved or have darts.
For yoke insertions opt for lace that is at least 6-8cm wide. For waistl/midriff insertions it can be 12 – 15cm wide.
Step by Step guide
Lay the lace over the right side of the fabric piece in the position you want it, pin in place and try on the garment to check it looks good . Make sure there is enough to tuck inside the side seams, thus 1.5cm either side. If adding to the yoke front and back for instance, position it so that it is at least 15mm from the shoulder seam edges but so it goes into the armhole seam. An alternative position is just below the waistline from side seam to the centre front/centre back or just above the waist line to bare the midriff.
Carefully unpick the side seam/armhole edge where the lace sides are so that the edge of the lace can be tucked inside the seam. Using a thread to match the lace, stitch all the way around the lace panel, close to the edge, using a straight stitch. For scalloped edges, stitch straight across just above the scallops so that they remain free.
Turn the fabric over to the wrong side and carefully snip into the centre of the garment fabric only. Then trim away the fabric from behind the lace panel, leaving a 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance all the way round. At curves or corners, snip into this seam allowance at an angle.
Press the seam allowance back over the previous stitching so that it is pressed away from the lace panel. Hand baste in place.
Again working from the right side, stitch closer to the lace edge so that you catch the seam allowance in the stitching using a small zigzag stitch. Resew the side seams/armhole to close and neaten sides. Press carefully with a pressing cloth.
Applique or open-toe satin stitch foot
An appliqué foot is great when it is advantageous to see very clearly where you are sewing. Generally it is a short squat foot, made of clear plastic with a wide opening for sideways zigzag stitching and a deep channel on the underside through which concentrated stitching, such as satin stitch, can glide easily. Sometimes it has an open front, others just have the wide aperture. The shorter length of the foot makes it more manoeuvrable for following a particularly intricate design, round lacy patterns etc and of course, around appliqué motifs. An Open Toe Satin Stitch foot is similar, but not as square in shape. Again it has an open front so you can see where it is going to stitch more clearly.
In January last year I wrote a blog answering some FAQs on choosing pattern sizing, measuring and cutting out patterns. A year on and I will now answer some of the sewing technique queries I often get asked about. Arm yourself with these tips and you can be sure of great success with your dressmaking. And if you do want to check out the blog abut choosing pattern sizing etc, it’s in the archives.
What is stay stitching and why is it needed? Stay stitching is a line of stitching which helps prevent the fabric stretching out of shape during handling and making up the garment. Use a regular stitch length (2.2 – 2.5) and sew just inside the seam line on the seam allowance. This remains in place, but will not be visible once the seams are sewn.
What is ease stitching? This is also row of stitching, but this time it is to help ‘ease’ in a curved seam, particularly into a straight edge. You will use ease stitching around sleeve heads, on a circular hem allowance and sometimes on princess seams. Again stitch on the seam allowance, about 6mm – 10mm from the edge but with a long stitch length of 4.5 – 5. You can then gently pull up the stitching a little to ease in the fabric edge to fit the straight edge and match notches etc. Any tiny gathers should only be in the seam allowance and not beyond the seam line once the seam is stitched.
My dress pattern includes darts, what are these for and how do I make them? Darts are used to shape a garment, taking out extra fullness to provide a good fit at the waist, through the body and of course to shape the fabric around the bust. They provide the 3D element in a garment – rather than having flat fabric pieces that fit where they touch, you can create fit by stitching darts to add shape. Bust darts come from the side seam to approx 2.5cm from the bust point (fullest part of the bust) and should be pressed over a ‘ham’ which is a firm curved shape (that looks like a ham, hence the name). This enables you to press the stitching but retain the curved shape created. Waist darts are used to shape trousers and skirts from waist to hip. Avoid making darts wider than 2.5cm at the top before the fabric is folded as they will be impossible to make flat and smooth at the tapered point. If you are a true pear shape and need to take out more fabric because the difference between waist and hip is greater than ‘average’, rather than have 2 wide darts at the back of the skirt, have 4, two either side of the centre back seam that are easier to taper smoothly.
Double ended darts are used in the bodice and are vertical. They are wide in the centre tapering to points at either end, helping to fit the garment through the torso.
It is good advise to stitch all darts from the widest part to the tip, taking the final 2-3 stitches right on the fold of the fabric. This includes the double ended darts, so for them you stitch from the centre to the point at one end, and then overlap the stitching at the centre and stitch again down to the other point. Press horizontal darts downwards and vertical darts towards the centre. For double ended darts you may also need/want to cut a wedge shape out of the folded fabric at the fullest centre part so that the fabric can more easily curve with the body.
What is an invisible or concealed zip and how is it different? An invisible, or concealed, zip is one with the teeth on the underside so they are not visible from the right side of the zip. A regular zip has teeth on the right side of the zip topped with a zip pull. When inserted, the teeth face outwards. On an invisible zip, as the teeth are on the underside, they face towards the body.
An invisible zip is sewn to the seam allowances only so there is also no visible stitching on the right side of the garment and it is inserted before the rest of the seam is sewn. All that should be seen is the little zip pull at the top. It is the easiest zip to insert, once you know how (!) and is best sewn in place with an invisible zip foot – which has two deep grooves on the underside, through which the teeth are fed as you sew virtually underneath the teeth.
I want my garment to look professional, do you have any advice for finishing seams? Finishing seams properly can turn a garment from homemade to hand crafted. It is vitally important to finish and press seams all the way through the garment construction process. Once sewn, press the seam before you stitch over it again. Depending on the weight of the fabric, you can press seam allowances together or apart (lightweight fabrics can have seam allowances finished together, on medium or heavyweight fabrics, press them open and neaten each separately). You then need to neaten, clip and notch seams depending on whether they are curved or not.
To neaten, use an overlocker if available – this is the fastest and neatest way to encase raw edges to prevent fraying and provide a neat finish. Otherwise you can use an overedge stitch with your overedge foot (this is often one of the basic feet provided with a sewing machine, it has a metal bar in the aperture and a guide that protrudes below the foot, or a thicker right toe). Line up the guide or thicker toe with the edge of the fabric and choose the overedge stitch – this has a straight stitch to the left with a zigzag stitch to the right which goes over the metal bars holding the fabric edge flat and over the edge of the fabric. An alternative is the zigzag stitch, which you sew along the seam allowance and then trim the allowances close to the zigzag.
For curved seams you need to clip and notch the seam allowances so they will lay flat. Clip diagonally into inner curves and take wedge shape notches from outer curves. On thick fabrics, you need to grade the seam allowances at collars, cuffs and facings to minimise bulk in the seams – to do this, trim one to 10mm and the other to 6mm.
For garments that you will see the inside of, you can sew seams with a French seam that neatly encases the raw edges, or finish seam allowances with a Hong Kong finish (wrap bias tape around the seam allowance and sew in place to the seam allowance only). A Hong Kong finish is perfect for unlined jackets or heavier fabrics.
What have dressmakers been sewing ready for Spring? Top of the pops is the perennial classic – a pencil skirt. A pencil skirt can be a classic knee skimming business skirt, a sassy and shorter option in four-way stretch or slinky sequins for evenings or for a contemporary twist on the style make it as a calf length hobble or wiggle skirt. It’s no wonder this simple skirt is such a popular classic, not only can it be worn for so many occasions, it’s an easy garment to make too.
You can choose to make your pencil skirt with a waistband, or waist facing instead, which I prefer and you can add darts to the back to shape it around the derriere and even add kick pleats or a fashionable ruffle at the hem for a variation.
Do take care to make the right size though because it is a close fitting garment, so there isn’t a lot of ‘ease’ allowance. Check your hip and waist measurements and choose the size by the hip. It’s easier to adjust for a different waist size – grade the side seams out or in slightly, remove or reduce darts etc. Remember that whatever the difference between your waist and the pattern size waist will need to be divided by the number of seams or darts you are altering. So if you are 5cm (2″) bigger on the waist than the pattern is for the hip size you’ve chosen and you have 2 side seams plus two front darts, you can divide it by 4, and grade out the sides by 13mm and slim down the darts or leave them out completely.
Which pattern to choose
There are a number of easy to make pencil skirt designs to choose from, including a top selling classic such as McCalls 6654 which is an easy to make skirt for knit fabrics, with elasticated waist and just two pieces – front and back.
Go short and sassy with McCalls Learn to Sew design 7631, which is a Learn to Sew design so has detailed how-to instructions for inserting a zip, learn to make a back slit and sew with difficult fabrics.
For a more contemporary look, try Vogue Pattern 8750 which has several curved seams to give a classic style chic detailing. And why not add some piping within some of the seams to lift this easy to sew pattern into the designer class!
My final top pattern pic for a pencil skirt is Butterick 5566 which is perfect for the lovely new four-way stretch knit fabrics as well as woven fabrics. Make one or two up and you will have some figure hugging staples to add to your wardrobe.
My new year’s resolutions for 2018 are not about dieting, drinking and exercising, but Sew Necessary New Year Solutions to sort out and clear out my sewing space. My list includes a cull of patterns, fabric, trimmings, haberdashery and machines!
Patterns – to make or not to make
I will go thorough my stash of patterns and weed out all those that I will never make. As Brand Ambassador for the McCall’s Pattern Company, I have access to all the new designs of Butterick, McCalls, Kwik Sew and Vogue Patterns. So out go:
A. Patterns I’ll never make because I’ve gone off the style (or it has gone out of fashion – I do have some dating back many years)
B. Out go those I’ll never make again – because although I love the original I’ve already made, I really don’t want two of the same style.
C. Set aside those I do want to make again and make a list of fabric requirements so I can put them on my to-do list.
UFS – cull or complete
Go through my UFS (unfinished projects) and decide which I will realistically finish and those that I’ve long gone off the boil about and will never really finish. Life’s too short to make something that you’ve fallen out of love with. And if it has remained unfinished for a year or two – it’s past it’s sell by date!
Banish unread books
Go through my library of books and weed out all those I haven’t looked at for years and probably never will. I have a lot of those. Books I have bought or been given because they are about the subject I love (sewing) but actually, I have other more recent books that I prefer and do refer to.
My name is Wendy Gardiner and I am a magpie! I can’t bear to throw away something that might come in useful one day. But this time I will.
Blitz the bits and bobs box
Go through my Bits and Bobs box(es) – sadly a lot more than one box. This includes all the short lengths of ribbon, cord etc that I have saved from fancy carrier bags because they may come in useful one day. I’ve bags of big glassy jewels – they were fabulous when I got them about 10 years ago (!), card making supplies – I tried that once, definitely mustn’t give up my day job – and part packs of felt flowers etc. I really need to weed these out and of course, make room for new trims…
Fabric Stash Bust
Again truth is I have fabric stashes – not one or two! Firstly I will go through my remnants box(es) – again more than one. I will sort out all those small pieces left over from projects – you know what I mean – those bits that you never know might come in handy! Sort out the half metre lengths from dresses I’ve made where I buy more than a pattern requires because I often buy the fabric first, so over estimate, just in case. They are big pieces, but I will not really ever use them, and someone else may do so.
I will also try and be very bold and brave and sort out all those lengths of fabric I bought many, many years ago that I’ve never made up and really never will. Being a fabric lover and hoarder, I do have a tendency to buy more new fabric at every opportunity, so have a few boxes I’ve not touched in years. So out with the old it is.
And then, I will pair up the remaining pieces with patterns and put them in a Projects to Complete box.
I will sell off some of my sewing machines. I do have more than I need and they take up space. (I mean, do I really need 15!). Right now in order to get to my fabric boxes, I have to move an ironing board and a dressform out of the way. To reach interfacing, I have to move two sewing machines and an overlocker! So time to sort out those I don’t use and sell them. After all I can then use the money to buy more fabric, haberdashery, patterns – or a weekend sewing retreat to get over my exhausting sewing space overhaul!
Once the clean up is done, I will take the bags of fabrics, books, haby etc to a local Hospice charity shop that specialises in Arts and Crafts so I am sure they will go to good homes. And then, to redecorate the room and add more storage and workspace so perhaps I can leave out my most used sewing machine and overlocker, all set to sew at any time. Oh bliss…
The High Street shops are packed with tops, dresses and jumpers with sensational and stylish sleeve detail. So, I searched through the pattern catalogues to see what I could make myself which includes this new fashion detail. Of course McCalls, Butterick and Vogue Patterns have ensured what’s available ready-made is also available to those of us that like to create our own unique fashions. I’ve noted a few of my favourites which I shall get ready to sew over the Christmas break.
Classic Jacket with a twist
A classic simple jacket has a new twist in Vogue Pattern 8991, which includes lapped and buttoned cuffs up to the elbows. I like the way this is still a classic design so will last for years, even when the Big Sleeve detail has passed! This one is worth making in a good quality LintonTweed or similar quality wool coating fabric.
Top Styles with big sleeve details
More familiar in the high street are tops with long ruffled sleeves so I really like the simple top in McCalls pattern 7657 which has long sleeves ending in ruffles. If I make this one, I might leave out the choker style neckline and just keep it as a simple V-neckline which is of course the beauty of making your own clothes, you can choose to add or leave out elements that you want to change. And of course, there are other options in the pattern pack as usual. I could include ruffles down the front too!
Sew Now featured another McCall’s top, this time an overlay front extends into the sleeves (McCall 7658) which makes it different and fun.
If you like dresses, the wow-dress by Tom and Linda Platt is stunning with it’s cape like sleeve detail (Vogue Pattern 1565). Shown here in bright red, it can of course be made in any colour so doesn’t have to be such a show stopper if that is not your thing!
For the more conservative, Butterick 6482 is a dream in denim with top stitch detail on the bodice and belt and then pleated and top-stitched three quarter sleeves. Just remember to use the quilter’s guide on your machine to stitch row after row of perfectly parallel lines! (That’s the little metal rod that fits into the back of the foot holder and can be moved left or right so you get parallel rows of stitching equally spaced every time. Just stitch the first row, then move the rod so it runs along that line of stitching and stitch the next row, watching the guide not the needle).
For evenings and special occasions, McCall 7654 combines cold-shoulder sleeves with ruffles and more. Again there are other options in the pack
Its a Wrap
I also love the pack of wraps with sleeve variations or simple flared sleeves with lace detail shown on Vogue Pattern 9270. Having a wrap, bolero or short jacket is a must-have when the nights are colder and bare shoulders a no-no!
So join me and get sewing the latest fashion trend this season and make your sleeves sensational!
There are lots of lovely faux fur garments in the shops this winter and so of course, it’s time to start sewing with faux fur. Butterick, McCalls and Vogue Patterns have a great selection and best of all,most are easy to sew so quick to make as well! (You only need simple lines to let the fabric do the ‘talking’).
I’ve got my cocktail dress to wear this winter (Vogue Pattern 8997) but need a little topper to keep my shoulders and arms warm so I’ve made McCalls 7289, a little shrug that’s super easy to make.
Faux fur is handled the same as many other plush fabrics, such as luscious velvets, faux suede, velour, brushed cotton, brushed denim, fleece and more. Because of the wide range of fabrics available with a pile or surface finish, they can be used for a huge variety of garments from luxury eveningwear to casual but cosy clothing.
Needle choice – The needle of choice will depend on the weight of fabric but generally, you can use a sharps/universal needle. So for light to medium thickness faux fur, a 80/12 is fine whilst for a lightweight silky velvet, you might want a 75/9 and for dense fabrics a more robust needle such as a 90/14 or jeans needle. For stretch fabrics such as velour or fleece, opt for a ball point needle again with the size to suit the fabric.
Seams – A regular straight seam is fine for fabrics with pile. Press seam allowances open and neaten raw edges separately. If the fur you are working with is ‘long haired’ trim away some of the fur from the seam allowances before stitching the seam. Also on furry fabrics, you can use a pin to tease out the fur from the right side along seam lines making it almost invisible.
Lapped seams – these are ideal for double sided fabrics such as faux suede or some fused woolens. Cut the underlap seam allowance off and then lap the top layer. Sew close to the edge of the top layer and again 1cm away. I did this for a faux suede/fur backed fabric from which I made a coat. I love it, so cuddly and warm.
Stitch length – lots of faux fur fabrics are thicker because of the pile, so a longer stitch length may be better (a longer stitch will prevent the fabric puckering). Try a stitch length of 2.8 – 3.5 depending on thickness and number of layers. Try out a seam on scraps of the same fabric to see what works well.
Hemming – its best to have just a single layer of hem allowance, so neaten the raw edge before turning it up the required amount. Consider using bias binding wrapped around the raw edge for a really neat and ‘designer’ finish before turning up the hem. Then stitch with a blind hem machine or hand.
Follow the ‘with nap’ layout when cutting out fur or fabrics with a pile so all pieces are the same way up, head to toe.
Cut from a single layer of fabric and flip tissue pieces over to get a right and left.
Rather than using pins, which can get lost in the pile, use paper clips or quilter’s clips.
Stitch all seams in the same direction, and preferably with the pile, ie from top to bottom
Use a walking foot to keep layers together as you sew – otherwise the pile on the fabric surface can cause the fabric layers to ‘walk’ unevenly as you sew. Also pin more closely together, pinning at right angles to the seam so you can whip the pins out easily as you sew.
When pressing, use a press cloth and always press from the reverse and over a needleboard (which has velvet or tiny pins into which the pile can sink) or alternatively, use a scrap of fabric or soft towel to press onto, which will also protect the pile.
Consider cutting facings,pockets etc from a cotton or satin lining fabric rather than the fur which may be too bulky.
Grade the seam allowances by cutting the garment seam to 1cm and the facing seam to 6mm.
What a day packed full of fun challenges. Sew Saturday at Sew Creative in Petersfield was a jam-packed event, which coincided with the shop’s third anniversary too so it really was a day of celebrations.
Team challenge 1 – McCalls 7582
Customers were invited to participate in one of two team challenges – the first in the morning to make a pair of dolls from McCalls 7582. The pattern pack includes a number of cloth dolls with different outfits including shoes and hair variations.
The Blue team, lead by Clare had to make dolls of Steve and Sharon whilst Sharon’s Pink team had to fashion their dolls into Jo and Clare. Lots of hilarity, doll stuffing and fevered activity resulted in these amazing dolls. Mini Jo has four arms – so she can continue to multi task! Mini Steve was suitably adorned with gold rim glasses whilst mini Sharon – smaller than the rest (as is she) had a lipstick in hand. Well she is a very smart lady.
Whilst all this was going on, other areas of the shop offered alternative activities, such as programming and stitching out your name on the latest Janome Horizon sewing/embroidery machine. The complete piece of stitched graffiti will be displayed in the shop. Or you could hand stitch a patch to a chair – the aim being to cover it completely throughout the day.
If you preferred something quieter and comradely, you could sit down at a table covered with felt hearts, stuffing and embroidery floss and make a hanging Happy Heart. A moment of relaxation, chatting to fellow customers and learning different hand stitching techniques from each other.
Back to the bustle of the shop, Jo (owner of Sew Creative and organiser of the Sew Saturday adventures) and I were challenged to turn something into something else in30 minutes. We found out what that would be 5 minutes before we had to start. Both had spent a sleepless night the night before, trying to think of what we would do with a T-shirt, pair of jeans, tote bag etc – but neither of us had thought about a hat! So thinking on our feet, Jo chose to make a dream catcher and I decided on a sewing basket. With the clock counting down we began, and to add to the ‘fun’ we had an audience asking questions at the same time and were filmed for a live facebook feed! No pressure then….. The results may not be magnificent, but they were achieved within the 30 minute time slot. Both of us were relieved when it was over and time for the next customer team challenge.
Again new team blue, lead by Clare and team pink led by Sharon (both these lovely ladies are regular tutors at Sew Creative) found out what they had to upcycle moments before the 1.5 hour challenge began. It was a curtain, pair of fluffy socks, long sleeved t-shirt and belt. Fortunately both Sharon and Claire were full of ideas immediately – hats off to them (excuse the pun) and away the teams went.
The Pink team turned the curtain into a fishtailed skirt with elastic waist and waistcoat using the gathered top as a ruffle around the waistcoat edge. The T-shirt had the sleeves shortened, the neckline removed and a gypsy style gathered top instead to go with the Spanish theme. The socks were turned into arm warmers (pretty and practical) whilst the belt became a headband. One of the team bravely wore the ensemble for the final reveal.
The blue team went down a completely different route – making a pinafore dress for a toddler from the curtain. The t-shirt was turned into a little top and leggings, both of which were trimmed with a little of the fluffy socks. Another team member made a cute hat with pom pom (from the curtain and more of the socks) whilst team leader Clare made a very cute bunny with pink fluffy ears and body from the curtain which she popped into a bag made from yet more of the curtain (with strap from the belt).
It was really impressive how the teams worked together and against the clock to produce something very wearable.
So another successful Sew Saturday at Sew Creative. It was wonderful to see how the customers and staff are such a community, sharing their passion for sewing on this special Sew Saturday. And of course, I bought some fabric too – a lovely soft jade coloured jersey which will be a new Vogue Pattern shortly!
This pretty vintage pinny is just one of the patterns available in the Vogue Pattern range of retro styles. Vintage designs are still incredibly popular so I’ve made this retro-style pinny (Vogue 8643) all ready for a swish dinner party!
The apron came together easily although it does have some unusual shaping, which adds to the vintage style. There are two side panels which are gathered to a shaped centre panel. Big patch pockets can be trimmed along the top with lace or ric rac, or have appliqué or lacy edging.
I made view A which has lace edging along the top edge – a nice touch with a definite vintage feel.
The first step was to make the patch pockets. Step one is to add the lace edging along the seam line of the pocket top. With right sides together, stitch in place so the straight edge of the trim is along the seam line and the scallop edge hanging down towards the pocket. Then add the pocket lining sandwiching the lace trim between the layers which are placed right sides together. It’s best to work with the pocket front uppermost so you can see the stitching holding the lace trim in place, and therefore sew just to the left of the first row of stitching so it will be encased within the seam.
Continue around the pocket and to get a smooth curved seam, at the curves, stitch slowly, stopping with needle down, raise presser foot slightly and pivot the fabric. Leave a turning gap in the bottom edge.
Again to help the curved seam turn through smoothly and without visible lumps and bumps in the seam area, clip and notch the curved seams of the pockets – cut little wedge shapes from the seam allowance at the outer curves.
Edge stitch the pockets in place
The pockets are then edge-stitched to the side panels – edge stitching is just stitching close to the edge. To achieve a straight seam, nicely on the edge, use the inner edge of the presser foot as the guide and move the needle to the far right (using the stitch width button to move the needle when sewing with a straight stitch).
Add gathered side panels
The side panels are then gathered and attached to the front panel but first, it is important to stay stitch the inner curves on the front panel, to prevent them stretching out of shape as you sew and attach the sides (to stay stitch – stitch with a standard stitch length just within the seam allowance, close to the seam line.) To gather the top of the side panels, sew just inside the seam allowance with a long stitch length of 4-5mm. Pull up the bobbin thread to gather the fabric to fit the inner curve of the front and sew together.
Trim added to top edge
The top of the apron has ties and a facing, but before adding these, first attach ric rac or lace trim to the top edge of the front piece p following the same technique as attaching the trim to the pocket top.
Ties stitched and attached
The ties are stitched, right sides together around the pointed ends and up to a large circle near the other end beyond which is left unstitched in order to insert the apron back into the tie end neatly. This is an unusual way of attaching ties, but does produce a neat finish.
The apron is then finished with an interfaced facing across the apron front to give a waistband effect.
I hope you enjoy making your own pretty vintage pinny.