The Final Great British Sewing Bee – a great night in for a great night out!

Vogue 8889 is a fabulous smart shirt pack
Vogue 8889 is a fabulous smart shirt pack

The end of the road is here – but it’s been a great trip along the way! Throughout the series the Great British Sewing Bee set tricky challenges to test the contestants skills and indeed, help them develop and grow along the way. It has been wonderful to watch as each progressed through the weeks – young Jade blossomed, Charlotte continued to quietly produce beautifully sewn garments and Joyce gave us a few laughs along the way as she occasionally went ‘off piste’ but always with flair and style.

Kwik Sew 3883 - Make a shirt with or without front pocket
Kwik Sew 3883 – Make a shirt with or without front pocket
Kwik Sew 3422 might look casual, but add pin tucks and make in a cotton or linen and it will be tres chic
Kwik Sew 3422 might look casual, but add pin tucks and make in a cotton or linen and it will be tres chic

This week the final three had to make a man’s evening shirt with pin tucks, collar, lined yoke and cuffs with plackets. No mean feat when working against the clock. It was nice to see a garment for a chap – we don’t often make for the men in our lives as most dressmaking (and doesn’t the name say it all!) is for women or children. So a shirt was a refreshing change. If you fancy giving him indoors a treat, you too can make a shirt from a selection of McCalls, Kwik Sew and Vogue Patterns. Take a look at McCalls 6613, Kwik Sew 3422, 3883 or Vogue Pattern 8889. All have lovely shirts, with or without front pockets (and of course you can leave them off and add pin tucks instead).

Pin Tuck Tips
If you are going to add pin tucks, which do create a fabulous texture to a dress shirt, do so before cutting out the shirt fronts as they will alter the width slightly, depending on how many tucks you add. Trace around the pattern piece onto your fabric and stitch the tucks, then lay the pattern piece down again, check and cut out.

Twin Needle and Pin Tuck Foot
Stitching pin tucks is made so much easier if you use a twin needle and pin tuck foot. The double needle ensures two perfectly parallel rows of straight stitching, an even distance apart stitched side by side at the same time whilst the foot enables you to ensure row after row is parallel as it has grooves on the underside through which a tuck slides as you sew the next one. Just make sure you start with the needles in the centre position, in line with the gap in the foot, stitch the first tuck and then move the fabric across so the tuck is in one of the grooves of the foot before sewing the next. Whether you position it so it is in the first groove right next to the centre, or leave a gap so the tuck slides under an outer groove is up to you. I prefer a bit of space between them – try it on a scrap of fabric to see what you like best.

Threading
Attach the spare spindle for the second reel of top thread and then thread them together through the thread path until you reach the last hook above the needle. If you have a hook either side of the needle shaft, slip one thread behind the left and one behind the right. If not, just slip one of the threads behind the hook and leave the other hanging. Thread through the eyes of the needles by hand (sorry, auto needle threads do not work with twin needles). Increase the tension to highest, 8-9 and you are ready to sew. As you stitch with a twin needle, the bobbin thread moves between the two top rows on the underside creating a sort of zigzag – having increased the tension pulls this up a little to create the tiny ridge/tuck on the top. The more tucks you stitch, the more pronounced they become. Personally I like to work in odd numbers, so tuck 3,5,7 or 9 times. For some reason, it looks better (or so I think!).

Vogue 9097 a suit that James Bond would be proud to wear!
Vogue 9097 a suit that James Bond would be proud to wear!
Vogue Pattern 8988, great for day or evening wear
Vogue Pattern 8988, great for day or evening wear

More options
Of course you can go the whole hog and make your man a suit such as Vogue 9097 or 8988 – both will certainly ensure you of brownie points!

 

Vogue Pattern 9053 is very easy vogue but also very elegant
Vogue Pattern 9053 is very easy vogue but also very elegant


Evening Elegance
I loved the evening dress challenge. Nothing beats having something glamorous to wear on a special occasion. The very beautiful Vogue 9053 used is a case of a Very Easy Vogue design looking gorgeously elegance and expensive when actually it is easy to make. Because it is easy, you can use a luxurious fabric and make it look stunning. Just make sure you read the instructions through from start to finish before beginning and start with a fresh new needle so you don’t snag the fabric. Same goes with pins – it is something we often forget to replace but blunt pins can also snag delicate fabrics causing runs or holes. Reading the instructions through before starting will also help you plan the project.

Butterick 5969 includes a corset and full length skirt with bustle and train
Butterick 5969 includes a corset and full length skirt with bustle and train

Another great make for evening is of course a corset such as Butterick 5969, which is a Costume pattern in the Butterick range. It includes the costume and skirt with bustle. Of course, the challenge with a corset is definitely the fit – it has to be snug – indeed, often a corset will have a finished size slightly smaller than your own measurements – so that the lacing pulls you in! So do check sizing carefully before making one up, and compare the finished garment measurements with your own measurements.

Whatever you decide to make, enjoy the experience.

Sewing with Stretch: Sportswear

Kwik Sew 3813 is a great sports top for leisurewear or sport activity
Kwik Sew 3813 is a great sports top for leisurewear or sport activity

Sewing with stretch fabric can be wonderful – after all stretch fabrics stretch – which makes fitting much easier. But stretchy fabrics can be challenging to sew – particularly those that are two or four-way stretch with a high content of Spandex or Lycra. Of course, there are some useful sewing tools that make it easier and following a pattern with helpful sewing tips on sewing with stretch fabric takes a lot of the guess work out of the project.

McCalls, Kwik Sew and Butterick do have some great sporty pattern packs so you can make your own with confidence. And as wearing sportswear is one of the key fashion stories this year – now is definitely the time to sew with stretch! (See below for some of my suggestions for sporty patterns.

Sewing tips

  • Stretch needle – You will need to sew two-way stretch fabric with a stretch needle (not just a ball point needle). A stretch needle is designed for these very stretchy fabrics and will prevent skipped stitches, or uneven stitching.
  • Seams – If possible sew most seams on an overlocker, but if not available, Use a stretch stitch on horizontal seams – which looks like a bolt of lightening on your sewing machine too. This will stretch with the fabric when pulling a garment on and off.
  • Seam neatening – you don’t have to neaten seams as they won’t fray, and if you have used an overlocker for seaming, you definitely don’t need to. But if sewing seams with a sewing machine, you might want to neaten seam allowances because some stretchy fabrics do tend to curl at the edges. To prevent this, once the seam is sewn, stitch the seam allowances with a zigzag stitch, and then trim close to the stitching.
  • Zip insertion – fuse interfacing to the seam allowance where the zip is to be inserted to prevent it stretching and buckling when inserting the zip.
  • Hems – neaten the raw edge to prevent it curling, and then turn up once. Sew from the right side with a twin needle which results in two parallel rows of straight stitch on the right side of the garment with a zigzag stitch underneath – this is the closest you can get to mimic a ‘high street’ cover-stitched hem. (A cover stitch machine is similar to an overlocker, but just stitches this type of hem. Great if you are sewing a lot of stretchy fabric, but a twin needle is a great alternative).

PATTERN CHOICES
For patterns take a look at Kwik Sew 3813 – it includes a gilet and top with full length zip but of course you could pattern hack it (!) and shorten the zip to finish at the end of the contrast section if you want something like the one in the first challenge of the show.

McCalls 7293 is a sporty looking top with contrast yoke and two-fabric sleeves
McCalls 7293 is a sporty looking top with contrast yoke and two-fabric sleeves

I also like McCalls 7293 which has different options mixing two colours such as this one with a contrast yoke and two colour sleeves.

 

McCalls 4261 is for serious exercise!
McCalls 4261 is for serious exercise!

Another great design is McCalls 4261 which is a pack of hoody, tops, trousers and skirts.

 

 

 

I love the dress below, it is sporty’ish – but certainly comfortable and has the added benefits of being sewn in a stretch fabric so it is comfortable to wear too! It is Butterick 6241.

Butterick 6241, My favourite type of sportswear - comfortable leisure wear!
Butterick 6241, My favourite type of sportswear – comfortable leisure wear!

 

 

 

Enjoy sewing your sporty outfits.

1960s Retro Dress – You Too Can Make the Mondrian!

Make the Mondrian using limited edition Vogue Pattern 1557
Make the Mondrian using limited edition Vogue Pattern 1557

Wow! I love vintage and retro and of course, McCalls, Butterick and Vogue Patterns have a nationwide promotion – The Big Vintage Sewalong running right now.

And now I will let you into a little secret – the original Mondrian dress was a Vogue Paris Original pattern by Yves St Laurent, which was based on artist Piet Mondrian’s bold block style. I predict it’s one we can expect to see everywhere! Retro and vintage fashions are still such big news and so very popular  – will this be the 2016 ‘walkaway’ dress?

Best news is that capturing the mood of the moment, Vogue Patterns has issued a limited edition pattern so that everyone can Make the Mondrian (look for Vogue Pattern 1557). The pack includes a simple shift dress with round neck and back zip, and instructions on how to ‘hack’ the pattern. With it you will be able to recreate this iconic design with its bold vertical and horizontal stripes and strong contrast colour on the left yoke – just like the original Yves St Laurent style.

It is available from all Vogue Patterns, Butterick, McCall’s and Kwik Sew stockists or www.sewdirect.com now.

Whilst the Dutch artist Piet Mondrian used bold red, blue, yellow and white colour blocks, always divided by the black bands in his artwork, in the dress Yves St Laurent created for Vogue Patterns, he chose classic black and white with a vibrant splash of red. Of course, the beauty of making your own is that you can use any combination of colours you like. Imagine it in Mondrian colours of red, blue and yellow, or a stylish cream and navy with a splash of emerald green, or red with white stripes and yellow yoke, or different colours for each panel? The choice is yours.

Going International – Great British Sewing Bee

First we saw contestants make a Chinese style top in sumptuous embroidered satin, then they had to use a sari length to create their own style in the 90 minute Alteration challenge and then an African inspired dress using a waxed printed cotton. So from shiny medium weight fabric, to soft slippery silky sari fabric and then a more robust printed cotton that needed pattern matching. Definitely challenging.

McCalls 7047, sew in satin and the peplum will stand out beautifully
McCalls 7047, sew in satin and the peplum will stand out beautifully

Making your own clothes is wonderful – it does mean that you can choose, not just what colour you want, but what type of fabric – which in turn can make or indeed break an outfit!  So my blog for this week is all about using these lovely fabrics successfully.

Of course, the pattern envelopes have guidance in the ‘suggested fabrics’ on the back of the pattern envelope – and any of these suggested fabrics will work well. But you can also experiment. A soft slippery fabric will drape into soft folds, whilst a crisp waxed cotton is better at holding a shape and satin  – well that just shouts glamour! To determine which type of fabric will work well, compare the suggested fabrics with your chosen one, is it a similar weight, will it pleat, gather and drape etc? This is easier if you are in a fabric shop and can handle the fabric – be bold, unroll a little and try draping, pleating or gather a little in your hand.

Having made your choice, arm yourself with the right needles for the job and suitable interfacing. Make sure you use a new needle which is properly sharp. A blunt needle can cause so many stitch problems, ranging from skipped stitches to snagged fabric. In fact you should change your needle every 8 hours of sewing or with every new project. For silks, satin and indeed cotton fabrics, a universal sharps is ideal, or even a lovely microtex needle which is fabulous for lightweight sari fabrics that are often made from georgette or chiffon if not polyester silks.

 

V8849
Vogue 8849, a peplum top with definite style – almost a mane! Definitely my favourite peplum top

Choose a stitch length of 2.2-2.5 for lightweight fabrics and consider seam choice. Satins can fray easily as can georgettes and silks, so raw edges must be neatened. Quickest is overlocked edges with a three-thread overlock stitch (remove the left needle for a three thread overlock stitch, which is narrower and therefore neater). For straight seams you can of course use a French seam, again particularly good for transparent fabrics as the seam allowances can be visible from the right side of the garment. Also to hem a transparent fabric, opt for a narrow rolled hem which minimises the see through of a hem allowance. For cottons, a double turned top stitched hem is ideal and for satins, a blind hem by hand or machine.

Oh, and my favourite pattern for a peplum top has to be Vogue 8849 – shown above. That shaped peplum definitely looks African inspired – indeed almost like a mane!

Butterick 6025, not actually a peplum, but the seam and deep pleats look like a peplum when worn with a belt
Butterick 6025, not actually a peplum, but the seam and deep pleats look like a peplum when worn with a belt

I also like Butterick 6026, because although not a peplum as such, the seaming is so slimming and easy to fit and worn with a belt as shown here, it looks like a peplum.

Sew on for now…

Lingerie and Luxury Robes – a first for the Great British Sewing Bee

Kwik Sew 3594 includes bras for sizes 32-40, AA-DDD
Kwik Sew 3594 includes bras for sizes 32-40, AA-DDD

Covering completely new territories, the contestants were asked to make a soft fabric bra this week. Now whilst a small garment, it is certainly one that can be challenging because of course, it has to fit perfectly. At least they didn’t have to cope with under wires as well.

If you also fancy having a go at bra making, then take a look at Kwik Sew 3594 which includes sizes 32-40 with cup sizes AA – D in 32-34, A-DD in 36-38 and cup sizes B-DD in size 40. Do remember to check your sizing, as with all patterns, it might not be the same as your ready-to-wear size – the pattern instructions will help you decide.

Bras need to be made from stretch fabric, such as lace, power net or nylon tricot which means sewing with a ball point needle and stretch stitch (which looks like a bolt of lightening) or small zigzag. Lingerie lace (which usually has a soft back and pretty picot edge) is used on the outside edges to help the bra fit snugly to the body with adjustable straps made from Nylon tricot or indeed bra straps that can be bought in packs. It is like any other garment, follow the instructions carefully step by step and you will quickly master bra making and wonder why you never did it before!

TOP TIP: Use plenty of hand cream in advance of sewing with delicate lacy and silky fabrics and make sure your hands and nails are smooth – rough skin can snag these beautiful fabrics so easily.

M5400Of course, you can also have a go at making swim wear, take a look at McCalls 5400 which includes different styles of bikini, including a tankini and tunic. Just like bras, they are made in a stretch fabric this time with Lycra or Spandex.

LUXURY ROBES
The final challenge for the day was to make a luxury robe, so I’ve looked at my favourites for men and women (shown below) and included some of my tips on sewing with silky fabrics.

Vogue 9015 is a luxury robe and nightgown with lace insets
Vogue 9015 is a luxury robe and nightgown with lace insets

I love Vogue 9015 which looks soft and silky here in polyester satin. The pack includes nightgowns with lace insets which are really luxurious.

 

TIPS ON SEWING SILKY FABRICS

  • When sewing silky fabrics you need a universal sharps needle, and preferably a nice new one as blunt needles can not only cause skipped stitches, but may snag the delicate fabric too.
  • Start seams at least 1cm from the end, holding the thread tails behind the needle and go forward 2-3 stitches then back to end, before continuing forward. This will help prevent the lightweight fabrics being pulled into the feed dogs.
  • Sew all vertical seams in the same direction to prevent
    V8888
    Vogue 8888 is a lovely collection of silky full length robe and nightdresses with lacy insets. I love the decadent feel of this set!

    them twisting and hold the fabric taut in front and behind the needle as you sew to very slightly stretch it. Once pressed it will relax back into a lovely straight seam.

  • Consider French seams on the straight seams, which neatly encases raw edges so the inside looks neat too. To create a French seam, first sew with WRONG sides together, taking a 6mm seam. Trim to 3mm and turn through so RIGHT sides are together, press with seam on very edge. Sew again with a 1cm seam allowance. Press again.
Vogue 8964 is perfect for the man of the house. It's a Very Easy Vogue design of gown and PJs - as made by one lovely contestant!
Vogue 8964 is perfect for the man of the house. It’s a Very Easy Vogue design of gown and PJs – as made by one lovely contestant!

Make Him indoors his own robe from V8964, which is a Very Easy Vogue design of robe and PJs are you are both kitted out!

Enjoy making your own luxurious lingerie. Next week we turn retro!

Get Stripy – The first Great British Sewing Bee Challenge!

Butterick 6058, stripes, but easier to handle with inserted diagonal panel
Butterick 6058, stripes, but easier to handle with inserted diagonal panel

So the first show is over – the Great British Sewing Bee has done it again – drawn us in and ensured we have sympathy for the plucky contestants as they undertook the first challenge of the series – to make an easy top in silky fabric – but the twist – to match diagonal stripes down the centre front and back! Phew…. not quite so easy then!

But there are of course some ways to do this more easily. The first is to cut each piece separately, not fold fabric hoping to match up the stripes on both layers and cutting two at a time. This is especially tricky with slippery fabrics, so take a little more time, and cut each front piece and each back piece separately – just remember to flip the tissue piece over to get a right and left section.

To match the stripes, cut the first piece, making sure the notches on the centre front seam are nicely aligned with a prominent stripe. Then flip the tissue piece over and with the first cut section to hand, place the tissue on the next piece of fabric, so the centre front notch is on the same strip as before. Lay the first piece alongside to check (don’t forget to allow for seam allowances either). Once satisfied they will match perfectly, cut out.

A maxi in stripes, easy to make and stunning looking
A maxi in stripes, easy to make and stunning looking

On slippery fabrics I definitely prefer to use dressmaking shears that have a slight serrated edge as they grip the fabric as you cut. Take long cuts, running the shears along the table surface between each. (McCalls 7121, sizes 6-22,  is an easy to make maxi dress which looks stunning in stripy fabric)

I always recommend cutting OUT around notches too, this ensures that should you need to pinch a bit of the seam allowance having tried on your garment during construction, you do have a bit to play with – if you have cut wedges or snips into the seam allowance – you don’t!

McCalls 7130, wear it as a strapless dress or skirt with wide band
McCalls 7130, wear it as a strapless dress or skirt with wide band

If possible also use a walking foot to help both top and bottom layers of the fabric feed evenly and smoothly. Although people think of this ingenous foot for quilting, it is actually great for all sorts of fabric including slippery beasties!

To narrow hem the sleeves and bottom edge, do consider using a rolled hem foot. Such a dreamy foot to use – once you have mastered holding the fabric up and slightly to the left in front of the foot. (McCalls 7130, XS 4-6 – XXL 24-28 is a stretch knit skirt/dress with wide band that is a bandeau or skirt yoke. Lots of panels but fab in stripes).

To get started, fold under 3-6mm twice to turn under the narrow hem (depending on the width of the scroll on the front of your hemmer foot) and pin for about 3cm. Attach the foot, but don’t try to put the fabric through the scroll just yet. Sew the first 2cm, sew the stitching is right on the inner edge of the folded hem. Stop with needle down, raise presser foot and guide the fabric raw edge into the coil at the front – just a single layer, not already folded.

Lower the presser foot and away you go. Hold the fabric in front with your right hand, raised and slightly to the left, helping to guide the fabric as it stitches with your left hand. It takes a bit of practice, but keep at it as it is well worth it and the results are fabulous.

Oh, and if you get little bits that haven’t turned under, don’t stress too much, finish the hem and then go back and redo the little bits by turning under the hem allowance as you did before, pin and stitch.

Butterick 6100, a great simple design that can be easily 'hacked'
Butterick 6100, a great simple design that can be easily ‘hacked’

If you love the simple shape of the top on the show, you can recreate it by ‘hacking’ Butterick 6100. Just add a centre front seam, remembering to add seam allowances of 1.5cm (5/8″) and rather than cut on the fold, cut two pieces. Voila – your own ‘hack’.

McCalls 7323, a great way to start with stripes
McCalls 7323, a great way to start with stripes

If you want to work with a stripy fabric but are a bit nervous of matching the pattern down a centre front seam, take a look at McCalls 7323, sizes XS 4-6 to XXL 24-26, as it has a diagonal insert to interrupt the horizontal stripes! Or try Butterick 6287, sizes 6-22 which is for stretch jersey fabrics (slightly easier to work with perhaps!)

So enjoy – working with slippery and stripy fabrics needn’t be a chore!

Only 3 Sleeps until the Great British Sewing Bee

If you are looking forward to the new series of the Great British Sewing Bee as mGBSB4 front cover of bookuch as I am, you will know that it starts on Monday – just three more days away! I have some small insight into the show as author of the accompanying book (very proud of that) but no spoilers so for now, will just share how prepared I think we should all be. Get your gear together!

Firstly if you are going topaper pattern packs want to make some of  the garments that the contestants are challenged with on TV, then of course you must buy the book – because it includes some of the show projects as well as many, many more – shameless plug here! It’s available in good book shops, on Amazon etc and is called The Great British Sewing Bee, From Stitch to Style. Of course the book comes with pattern sheets that you can trace off but you will need pattern paper to do this. I love the Perfect Pattern Paper packs by Pati Palmer for McCalls (available from www.sewdirect.com, code M091). The pack includes two huge, 213 x 122cm (84 x 48”) sheets of gridded tissue paper making copying patterns easy. Use the grid to follow grain lines etc.

Also available from sewdirect.com is a pack of plain tissue paper (B 991) and that has five sheets of 76 x 127cm (30 x 50”).

But of course there also lots of patterns in the McCalls, Butterick, Kwik Sew and Vogue Pattern ranges that will be very similar to those featured on the shows, and indeed might be more suited to your figure or shape. So do keep an eye out on the website – again to plug it www.sewdirect.com – my lovely colleague Marilyn will be updating it after each show with pattern suggestions so you can ‘get the look’.

So to be prepared to sew, sew sew, consider these other goodies that are surely ‘must-have’ haby! Treat yourself to a French Curve (M755 for metric, M756 for Imperial) – this is so useful when you need to graduate from one pattern size smoothly to another at say bust to waist to hip (and who doesn’t!) I also find a Hem Marker so useful when taking up hems on your own. It has an adjustable height guide and puffer filled with fine chalk dust, which you puff onto your skirt as you slowly turn, getting a nice even hemline (M587). To perfect press bust darts and curves in princess seams etc, a tailor’s ham is indispensible (M157).

There are lots of other useful haby aids on the website including interfacings, threads, needles and more. For now I will leave you with your preparations. And after each show I will blog some useful techniques and tips to help sew some of the designs featured. So as a little teaser – think pattern matching…..

More in just three sleeps!

Walkaway dress still a’walking!

B4790
Butterick 4790

Last year the Butterick Walkaway dress was featured on the Great British Sewing Bee which was the start of a promotion by The McCall Pattern Company (who distribute Butterick, Vogue, Kwik Sew and of course McCall Patterns) that exceeded all expectations and culiminated  in a massive £8000 cheque being donated by them to The Eve Appeal.  Personally the best part from my point of view was the spectacular sight of over a hundred women wearing their Walkaway Dresses at the Knitting and Stitching show where McCall’s held a Champagne Tea Party. It was so lovely seeing these ladies walk around the show all day, and we all felt as if we belonged to a special club – and indeed we did!

The diversity of the dresses was also fabulous to see – so many different variations, different fabric choices and combinations so although we’d all used the same pattern, no two were the same. That of course is the beauty of dressmaking!

Walkaway Dress Wendy full length
At the Walkaway Dress Tea Party, I was just one of many in my version of this iconic dress

Still a great dress to make and wear, I thought I’d share my tips on making it fit – because although it looks very simple, there can be areas that are not quite so straight-forward if you have a fuller bust like me!

The first thing I did, as I always do, is take measurements to check which size I shoud be making. (This is rarely, dare I say never, the same size as ready-to-wear high street fashions and indeed, can be 2 sizes bigger than high street). Also as I am over a C cup, I take my bust measurement around the chest or high bust – which is above the bust, under arms and around the back. I then cut out the tissue following the cutting lines for the size I needed, merging from one size to another for bust, waist and then hip.


Full Bust Adjustment

My next job was to lowered the bust point and thus bust dart and front darts as sadly, my bust point is no longer where it once was! I also do a full bust adjustment in order to increase the area around the bust, but keep the shoulders, chest, torso etc the right size. The method I used is the most commonly used method – so I cut through the centre of the new bust dart close to bust point, then diagonal from bust point to mid armhole, and vertically up front parallel to centre front but in line with bust point. I pivoted open the tissue and added spare before redrawing the side seam.  I then ’tissue fitted’. This gives a idea of how it will fit.

I also added an inch to the skirt section of the front from hem to waist to increase the waist size – but actually did take this out again when I’d made it in fabric and tried it on (before adding bias binding) as it wasn’t needed But better to have done that than find it wouldn’t fit!

I decreased the length on all corresponding pieces by  5cm (2″) as I wanted to make the dress shorter, more knee length suits me. If there is one asset I do have, it is good legs!

Added Insets and Godet
I also love to wear full petticoats, really 1950s style, which meant adjusting the shape of the front/under skirt which is cut straight normally and doesn’t have the swing of a circular skirt. So I  added triangular inserts to the front skirt section at the sides to give it a fuller skirt and again, after trying it on and wearing it once, decided to add a further godet into the centre front of the skirt to further expand the underskirt to accommodate my petticoat. I had found that the front of the underskirt rode up when walking etc as there still wasn’t enough room under it. I added the insets by cutting up from hem to waist seam pivoted out hem and added spare tissue.

Lowered neckline at front and raised at back
Again because of my fuller bust, I decided to lower the curved neckline at the front to a more flattering height,  but raised it at the back so that it wouldn’t slip off my shoulders all the time.

Ready to cut and sew

Having done all my adjustments, I cut out the dress and sewed it following the pattern. One of the most laborious aspects is the bias binding – but not if you have an adjustable bias binding foot for your sewing machine! This little gem wraps the binding around the fabric edge and sews it in place along the edge all in one go – so quick and easy!

I let it hang for 24 hours before hemming (although it says ‘make in a morning and wear to lunch’ the pattern does recommend hanging it for 24 hours, which is good advice when making any garment. It allows it to settle and bias cut seams to droop if they are going to so you can level them off before hemming).

Hemming could also be laborious unless you use a rolled hem foot on your machine, which again makes the task a breeze as it rolls the fabric edge under as it goes through the scroll on the front of the foot before it is stitched in place. Beautiful, and so quick!

So that is the story of my Walkaway Dress. I hope you enjoy making your own. (ps you can buy the pattern from www.sewdirect.com)